Just before the train arrives at Waverley Station it passes along Princes Street Gardens, which were starting to blossom in the early Scottish spring. Looking up to the right there was Edinburgh Castle and to the left the New Town area. Entering a city by train can't be more marvelous than this. The newspaper was right.
Above the railroad station was the North British Hotel, recommended by one of the oceanographers. Named for the railroad that once terminated below, the North British was unlike most UK railroad hotels. It was elegant and relatively inexpensive. We spent two nights there and visited (of course) The Castle, the New Town shopping district, the Sir Walter Scott monument and stopped at various pubs and restaurants.
The Caledonian Hotel (now a Hilton) sat at the opposite end of Princes Street. This competition for the North British Hotel was named for a competing railroad, now long gone, as all were nationalized at the end of WW II.
In 2006 I got to revisit Edinburgh, traveling with family. It is a busier, more prosperous and lively city than in 1963. We stayed elsewhere as the old North British, renamed The Balmoral, is now a five star luxury hotel, the most expensive place in town. We had dinner there and it was excellent. On another evening we dined at Michelin starred Restaurant Martin Wishart in Leith, Edinburgh's seaport.
Rather than a grand entry by train, we flew Easyjet up from London's Stansted airport. Second class travel indeed.
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Edinburgh New Town. Balmoral Hotel (former North British Hotel) and Waverley Station (right), Sir Walter Scott Monument (center). Traditionally, the clock above the railroad station is always set three minutes fast. Photo taken from Edinburgh Castle in 2006 by John A. Hansen. |